Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Issyk-Kul continued

Well, to our disappointment they didn't turn off the power. Seems like in other districts they have started already, but not in our's!!! Philipp got keroseen today and is still very excited about his new lamp. I will have to post a picture of the two of them soon.

Since I haven't taken many pictures lately, I'll show you some more Issyk-Kul ones. So here you see the lake. It's pretty, because you always (when good weather) see the high snow covered mountains on the other side of the lake. But other than that it feels like being at an ocean. Even the water is a little bit salty - and very clear!

The girl in the picture is my new friend Guillana. She's the 10-year-old daughter of one of Philipp's host sisters. Before we had known each other only from pictures, but now we are big friends! Regardless of our little language barrier...





Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Without Power

Since there is a shortfall in water supplies in Kyrgystan, at least the water supplies used for electric power, the city of Bishkek decided (again) to turn off the power regularly according to a specific schedule. Depending on which district you live in, they turn off the power for a different period each week day. We belong to group 1, which means:

mondays - 00:00 to 6:00
tuesdays - 18:00 to 24:00
wednesdays - 12:00 to 18:00
thursdays - 6:00 to 12:00
fridays - 00:00 to 6:00
saturdays - 18:00 to 24:00
sundays - 12:00 to 18:00

They had the schedule out a week ago, but haven't enforced it. But the last news we know say that they will start today. So we bought a keroseen (no idea how you spell that) lamp today. Unfortunately didn't find any keroseen yet. So the torches will have to do for today (18-24 o'clock). Usually the cafes still have power (generators), so my plan is to meet with friends tonight, get some dinner and enjoy some light. I wonder how dark it will really be in the streets, if really no apartment has any lights on (and there are no street lights in the neighborhood).

Well, it's past 17:00 - I better get the torches, matches etc. out, check the refrigerator and charge my cell phone...

Monday, August 25, 2008

Airline Accident in Bishkek

Sadly, there has been an Airline crash in Bishkek yesterday. We heard about it through German online news. But when we took a taxi this morning, of course, it was also on the local radio. It was a 29-year-old-plane on the way to Iran. Due to technical problems it crashed about 10 km off the Bishkek Manas Airport. The close by US-military base sent a rescue team of firefighters. Apparently about 70 people died and only 20 survived.

To read the full articles (in German) look here: Article in Spiegel-Online and Article in Tagesspiegel. Here is an English Article from NYT.

Now we "personally" have two connections to this accident (although luckily we don't know anyone, involved in it). On board was the Kyrgyz National Youth Basketball Team - 17 people. The news say only 7 of them have survived. The team seems to belong to the 29th school district, which is only one block away from us and many kids from our neighborhood also go to this school. I wonder, if we know anyone, who lost friends in this horrible accident...

The second connection is, that on Friday (see last post) we had gotten to know two firefighters from the US-military base. We had been joking about their job, because they said themselves, that there are not many fires around and that they spend more time on training, working out and beer drinking than putting out fires. I don't know, if those two were actually part of the rescue team, but now I feel bad about joking around...

Friday, August 22, 2008

More portraits!

I'm really getting good at portrait shooting, don't you think so? At least if you have such "dorky" (a word they regularly use to describe themselves) models that love to pose. Tonight we met with Jennifer and David from the neighboring "blog" (haha) and a co-teacher of them and two friends of her husband (all being firefighters at the US base). We went to mainly American bars. Being around them almost felt like being back in the States again - just a little more Southern...



Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Portraits - finally!

This is the "Wild Horse Games"-Post continued. Today some pictures of the crowd. So finally some pictures of faces and not only the backs. I'm so proud of myself. But it was easy to photograph, because everybody was concentrating on the game. Guess which ones are the Harvard professors being part of our group from the conference...










Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Wild Horse Games

I still have so many pictures from the Issyk-Kul trip, so that I will just continue posting them, although it's been a couple of weeks by now.

We were very lucky to get invited to some horse games near Tscholpon-Ata. It was a show for tourists (because Tschlopon-Ata is THE tourist destination at the lake), so we could tell that it wasn't as serios as the games we had seen last year for Independence Day, which was a real tournament.

In the game for example happened to be a fight between two players of the opposing teams. They were getting at each other with their whips. But we think it was fake and just set up for the show. But it was still interesting, because I love to see the massive power of horses and I loved to take pictures of the event (last year's didn't come out great).

They showed all different kinds of traditional games. The first one is called "kök börü" and played in teams. It basically works like soccer - except for the ball is a dead body of a goat (without the head). It gets picked up from the floor in the beginning of the game. This is fascinating to see, because it's hard to remain in the saddle at the same time and the goat seems to be really heavy (30 kg I heard). Then the player who picked it up, holds the goat with his thigh and tries to get to the goal, which consists of an elevated hole. Of course, meanwhile the other team tries to take the goat from him. It's amazing to see how the horses must be trained, because it doesn't look like they get a lot of commands from their rider, but as if they just know what to do. And they are so powerful.

The second game is called "sodarysch" can basically be described as wrestling on horses. Two guys wearing a certain type of belt, try to get each other off the horses (if I got the rules right). It was great to watch how much fun they obviously had. I was just wondering why they actually need the horses. They just seemed to be in their way somehow...

The third game is one of my favorites - "kis kummai" (meaning something like "catch the girl"). It's a race between a guy and a girl. While they go really fast for about 200 m the guy has to try to kiss the girl in the first round. Every kiss a point. Then they race back and the girl is supposed to hit the guy with her whip. Each hit a point. Very easy. Very clear. Fun to watch - especially the way back!

[to be continued]







Sunday, August 17, 2008

The MPI Hiking Adventure

Today we met the US-couple, who I met over this blog and who moved to Bishkek 2 days ago. It was like a blind-date, so I was excited. They turned out to be really nice people (I have to write this, because they're reading my blog regularly! *g*). But they still seemed kinda "high" from all the impressions and events in the past couple of weeks (if you read their blog, you'll know what I mean). Anyway, I can see us having some fun times together here! They took a picture of the 4 of us, so I suppose it will appear on their blog shortly. (yup, it appeared here) ;)

Right, the headline - The MPI Hiking Adventure - didn't indicate this story. But I also wanted to share our hiking experience at Lake Issyk-Kul with you. Like those who know us know that we are not into hiking (neither do we look like hikers, check out the pictures). However, I really like the view from the top of mountains. So we have a problem there! But fortunately Sophie (one of Philipp's MPI-colleagues) really wanted to go into the mountains the day before the conference started. So we took a taxi, which was supposed to bring us as high up as possible and we planned to walk a little from there. Unfortunately the taxi turned out to be a VW-Passat (meaning "not a Jeep") so due to the road conditions (actually I wouldn't call it road) "high up" wasn't quite that high. But we ended up walking up even higher for a while. Of course Sophie and Nathan, both sharing a love for hiking, went on further, while we just enjoyed the view and went back down to play Durak with the taxi driver while waiting for them.

(Most of the pictures were actually taken by Sophie. Hope you don't mind and thanks!)




Friday, August 15, 2008

Road impressions

Sorry, for not posting anything these past days. I've had a stomache flue, which probably was a souvenir from the Issyk-Kul conference. So today I finally can eat again and the energy is coming back. I took many pics on our journey and today I started going through them and making a selection. I started with some pictures, I am fascinated by because of the way they were taken - from the bus on our way back! I was really surprised that some of them turned out ok, although I had expected them to be all blurry. And it was really really interesting to pay attention to what's going on on the side of this road.

To give you an impression: There is basically only one main road from Bishkek to Issyk-Kul. It takes you out of the city, through the suburbs and some smaller towns, then a long time through farming land with only small settlements on the sides of the road and then into the mountains. When you get out of the mountains on the other side you see the lake already. The first town you head into is Balaktschi. From there you either turn left to get on the north shore of the lake or right to the south shore.

From Bishkek to Balaktschi it takes about 3 hours (plus about 1hr per 60 km depending on whatever town you're heading to). Especially during summer the main road is always busy because of the holiday season. And it's dangerous especially at night, because the road is not lit and some drivers are overtaking at very risky spots. So I've experienced, that even when you drive very carefully yourself, you get blinded by the lights from the opposite direction and you don't have a chance to see the cars getting in your lane (and there are many of them!), because they're overtaking from the opposite direction - assuming you will slow down, not knowing that you can't see.

So on the way there with Philipp's host family driving in a beautiful Audi A8 at night, I was quite nervous and watched nothing but the traffic. On our way back however during day time, I was so bored on the bus when most other conference participants were sleeping that I started taking pictures of anything on the way. So here is what you see (from top to bottom):

1. On the side of the road you find many locals selling goods in different kinds of stands, i.e. vegetables, fruits, honey, fish or kymyz (horse milk). The closer you get to Balaktschi the more often those stands are traditional yurts.

2. This is a view when you start to drive through the mountains from the lake direction. It's still quite green here, but the further you get in, the more the landscape turns to stones and dust.

3. Here you see the typical sight on that road: overtaking cars on the opposite lane.

4. This is another type of stand by the side of the road. I assume it's a little cafe as there is a table and some chairs.

5. A mosque in a little town. This is the typical look of mosques in this region.

6. A man with his bike waiting to cross the road in some of the little towns on the way.

7. I'm glad this picture turned out good, because it shows a typical (although very small) cemetary and I was never able to take a picture of one so far. Each grave has a little construction (like a yurt roof or a little temple like house) on top of it. They vary depending on how important or how wealthy the person used to be.

8. This is monument to remember the accidents that happen(ed) on this road. Of course today, they server more as a warning. There are at least 2 or 3 like this one.

9. It's the high season for watermelons. So there are lots of people selling them by the road. This is a small stand, there were other ones where it looked like an ocean of watermelons - I've never seen so many in one place in my life!









Monday, August 11, 2008

Back from Lake Issyk-Kul

We're back! This journey took longer than I thought. Like I wrote, I had planned to stay only a couple of days with our friends in their apartment in Bostari. But then it was so nice at the lake and it seemed kind of stupid to drive back all the way to Bishkek (3-4 hrs) and again back to the conference, which also took place at a resort by the lake a couple of days later - so I decided to stay there for the entire time. On Saturday, Aug 2nd, I took a taxi to the resort "Royal Beach" a couple of towns down the lake, where I met Philipp and his colleagues for the conference (international experts on Central Asia, mostly antropologists, sociologists, some political scientists and few historians). Anyway that is the short fact based story. I'll tell you more about it soon! Hope you are well and enjoying the summer...